Kimbap Haven

There's nothing like a familiar setting with friendly faces serving a hearty meal after a rough day at the office. And for me, the local Kimbap Cheonguk - literally, Kimbap Heaven - is just that. In this restaurant there is no 'comfort food' - no burgers or fries - listed on the menu. There are no pizzas or spaghetti, steak or salad, rarely is there even a word of English spoken. But there are few places in Korea where I feel more comfortable, more at home, than this restaurant where ajumas (literally auntie or lady) serve up the traditional Korean fare with a motherliness much appreciated by one thousands of miles from home.

A co-worker introduced me to the 24 hour restaurant within a few days of my arrival. I still remember looking up at the menu, daunted by the strange lines of the Korean script and unheard of, untasted dishes. Fortunately, and not unusually for Korean restaurants, I was able to simply point to one of the few large pictures of dishes pinned to the wall. These days, however, having learnt the script, mastered a little of the Korean tongue and tried much of what they have on offer, the crude point has been replaced by a proud, loud and confident: "Soon-dubu juseyo!" (Soft tofu soup, please!)

The advantages of being a loyal customer to the local Kimbap Heaven are many. Firstly, you discover that your options are not confined to the multitude of dishes on the wall menu. The ladies are more than happy to mix and match meals, leave out undesired - or simply scary - ingredients and add a little more of your favourite ones.

Service (freebies) - even if it's just an extra fried egg - is another plus. On numerous occasions, the ladies have dished out a plate of fried eggs, an extra dumpling or a few more morsels of spicy, fried tofu. It's never expected but always much appreciated.

If your sick, looking tired or unusually weak, you can count on your aunties away from home to first, notice it and comment on it, and second, have a tried and true antidote to counter it. There's yuja cha (citron tea) for a cold, kongnamul guk (bean sprout soup) for those with a fever and without an appetite and simply more rice for those looking weak or thin.

Places like this, when your a long way from home, are invaluable. They tend to dull the pangs of homesickness, make living away from home easier to handle - palatable, if you wish - and moreover connect us to real people, their community and culture, an essential part of any travelers experience and in the end, the reason why one travels.